Wednesday, September 1, 2010

Mumbai meri jaan

Marine Drive, Gateway Of India, Juhu Beach, the ancient temple complex Banganga, Dhobi Ghat, Rajabai Tower, Elephanta Island, and the latest wonder the Bandra-Worli Sea Link.
Mumbai, City of Joy and Splendour, breathtaking, mindblowing, stunning beautiful and at the same time overcrowed and fighting against poverty and dirt. City of Superlative and Extremes.
Mumbai!!
The Megacity reaches out into the Arabian Sea like an extended palm.
It is built on 7 islands, this fact alone gives a whiff of magic. Reading their names, like Parel, Mazagaon, Mahim or Colaba, let the fascination increasing.
Doesn't it sound like a fairytale? A city formed out of islands? It reminds me to my childhood
when i was reading a story about a princess and 7 swans. These 7 swans were 7 princes who had been under a spell of a witch. I like the idea that the swan princes are somehow related to the seven islands of Mumbai.
Sometimes i even start rewriting the old fairytale mentally.
Maybe the princes never had been redeemed and out of grief they flew over the oceans and ended up in the Arabian Sea. There they turned into stone and the islands arouse out of the sea.
I like the word Mumbai, i like Bombay too though.
At times I wonder if there is any other city on this planet which has changed it's name so often as Mumbai did.
Granted, they all are related to Bombay or Mumbai..but still they are different.
Honestly the change of names was more caused by the different western emperors, who all wanted to take possession of this fabulous piece of land, which seemed to be a promise of cornucopia and prosperity.
A Portuguese writer had happened to be the first who mentioned the region as Tana-Maiambu in 15th century. Tana most probably because of the neighbour town Thane and Maiambu appears to be a refference
to Mumba- Devi, the Hindu goddess after which Mumbai got its Maharashtrian name currently.
But the Portuguese used some other term for this area as well. Bom Bahia, Good Bay. Neglecting the not quite correct grammatically form of Bom, which is masculine and referring to Bahia it should be the female Boa actually, this was the expression the English invaders adapted and hence for the western part of the world a new city was born named Bombay.
For me both names sounds thoroughly positive ,one is originated from the geographical aspect and the other one from the mythical and religious one, but still i can understand that the city was renamed to Mumbai.
The relation to religion is an important topic in India.
I've never been in Mumbai in person, at least not that way that i could recall real memories, still i was there..millions of times in my dreams and thoughts.
My Love to this City is based on knowledge i've absorbed out of books and documentaries and it grew due to what friends, Mumbaikars were telling me when i peppered them with questions.
I don't remember exactly, when it has started and actually it doesn't matter anyway.

While studying the city map i'm taking long mind walks on the roads of Mumbai. Everything seems to glister.
Even the inevitable traffic, in which everybody stuck every time. Millions of yellow/black cabs, auto rickshaws, cars, motor bikes, and bicycles are fighting for every inch of space to go ahead. Their communication skills is defined by the ability to horn. Different tunes of horns. Some harsh and loudly, some more like whining, but always insisting on the same message: Get out of my way!
The tumult seems to come out of hell but actually it's just a sign of the vitality and energy this city is filled up with to the brim. The air consists out of a cacophony of sounds. Sometimes i wonder how any living being there is still able to hear and dont suffer numbness already. They say people can get used to almost everything or maybe the Mumbaikars already did the next step in evolution. Their sense of hearing might be in more high gear or it has gained the ability to select the sounds which will be heard and forwarded to the brain.

Mumbai has so many facets..so much of culture life..so much of beauty..so much of dirt!
It is a city which takes its fascination out of its disaccord and contrasts.
Mumbai is ancient and modern, old and new, 
It has a touch of British glamour from the 19th century and modern highrise buildings, but also large slums spreading haphazardly in every direction. The local commuter trains were the most packed,but it takes only a short boat ride and a few steps away from the beaten path to escape the city and be alone inside a forest.
Its the most populated metropolis on earth ...but it has beaches in the backyard.
The city parties till dawn yet prays at the daybreak.
One will find luxurous restaurants next to chai-walas and candy makers in the streets.
High technology harmonizes perfectly wonderful with century old traditions.
Everything in Mumbai, music, art, dance, religion, lifestyle is nothing but a symbol
of the love for life.
The city's dynamism narrates from its glorious past, its vibrant present and its vivid future.


Mumbai has conquered my heart and soul long time back already and all what i have ever seen, read or heard about it, i want to feel now too..with all my senses!
I am outta here.. :-)





Wedding, The Indian Way

"My cousin sister is going to get married" he says.
"Accha? That's really nice" i replied with a smile.
I like his cousin sister. She is a sweetheart and i'm happy for her,
because it will be a love marriage. Not one of those arranged ones, where actually
two families are getting married in some kind of social sense.
A Wedding..how wonderful!! Indian Weddings are very bright events.
Filled with rituals and celebrations. 400 attending guests are common.
At once pictures of colourful blooming Sarees appear in front of my inner eye.
Beautiful women adorned with lustrous jevelleries sparkling in warm light.
The melody of the Wedding Quawalli by A.R.Rehman flows through my mind.
Bride and Groom...under the Mandap.
I wonder if he will come riding on an elephant or a horse?!
Or will they adjust to modern times and he appears on a moped??
Who knows..even in India's most traditional celebrations modern times have arrived.
And btw... how to get an elephant to a Mumbaian Wedding??
I would prefer the elephant variation though! And it would be much easier for the groom as he
might be a bit handicaped by the Sehra a turban, which is extended by hanging flowers to cover his face.
He will be more secure if he is led by others to the Mandap.
She is wearing a veil in front of her face, her hands and feet are ornamented with Mehndi.
Haath Pila Karna, "making the hands yellow" this ceremony before the wedding
 i've seen in many Indian movies and i've loved it, because the bride always seemed to be so lost in daydreams and somehow enchanted while the Henna has been applied to her skin.
Will the reality be the same way? I really wish for it!!
Countless bangles tinkling like small bells. She seems to float on an ocean of blossoms.
The priest will tie their hands with a knot and do a pooja to Ganesha.
After this comes another ceremony i love the most. Saptapadi or the seven steps, which means
Bride and Broom conduct seven circuits around the Holy Fire, Agni.
Every of these circuits has a meaning and the couple makes a specific vow in each of them to establish a happy relationship for each other.
Who leads and who is following  differs accordingly to the local tradition.
And then the Bride will leave her parents home.
Hopefully for a nice Wedding Party.
So far to what will happen on the "Day of Days"...
And before....
A Wedding has to be planned and this very second i  have to face that in India the idea of a Wedding Planner is quite different to what i used to think about it.
Why should one ask for a stranger if the helpful hand is so nearby??!!
No wonder regarding all these ceremonies and rituals, there are so many things, which have to be prepared,  millions of tasks are to handle and much work has to be distributed.
And whom to we turn to in such a case? Family members and relatives! Of course!
And he is a family member!!
Surprised i realise that the music in my head starts getting dissonances. The precious cheerful melody
transforms to a slightly rolling thunder. Rainbow coloured dresses fading in some sort of dunst.

Ghosh!!
Amazing how quickly happy feelings turn into irritation!
While my thoughts becoming quite stringy, like a chewingum, i'm trying hard not to loose temper.
By and by i actually should have got used to this sort of "family business".
And if i'm honest to myself..all this might not even bother me if i just could stay with him..
I mean...in the same house, the same time zone, the same city..or at least the same country.
The "joy" of a distance relationship..no sense of denying!! 

As usual he senses my emotional turmoil quickly. "What happened shona?
Why are you quiet?"
I can literally feel the worried expression on his face.
Before i can start my litany about that we dont have much time together anyways and 
that i wonder if he has switched the job and entered the "wedding planning industry" now..and
and and..he just says "Dont worry baabu..i will call you often." 


I was all smiles..and my vision of a beautiful Indian Wedding was saved.

Sunday, November 22, 2009

Cooking..or..just a Nightmare..

"You will have to learn cooking the right dishes"he says.
"I can cook them." is my surprised response.
" At least some of them! I look at him with a smile.
Seeking for any reaction on his face i fail.
He is so occupied by his own thoughts that he
even don't notice my insertion.
My mind starts to wander while he
makes an excurse to the extraordinary relation which Indians have to food.

I had read concerning this fascination..in many of my thousands
of books about the country i love the most.
Kya aapne khaana khaa liyaa?
Have you eaten already?
After you have been asked "How you are doing" this will
be the next question if you meet somebody, no matter where or when.
For an normal european this is a quite weird experience.
Brought up in a country where nobody ever runs
the risk of staying hungry, except one is on a self-imposed diet of course,
like having 3 corns of rice a day, we hardly might be able
to understand the incredible importance eating has in India.

I lift up my head and try to concentrate again on his monologue.
"..and if you have cooked some new, tasty dish we can invite our neighbours."

HUH?

Oh yes..i guess i claimed i hate cooking for only one person
but i would be rather convinced, cooking for some more people
will be better, as in the price-performance ratio will improve due to
this fact.
But cooking for neighbours??
That was not really, what i was referring to.
This statement too is typical for an Indian i suppose.
Moreover for an indian man.
Stating the obvious it's not only the importance of cooking and eating itself.

No, moreover it's the pride to be blessed with a wife, who is able to
impress the neighbours and others with her "cooking art"
Again my thoughts diverting from the conversation.
I see myself standing in a small kitchen and outside
in the backyard of the building a huge crowd is waiting impatiently,
banging their spoons on metallic plates and yelling:

"Humein bhookh lagi hai!!!" We are hungry!!

I have a closer look to my pans and all i can see is they are filled...with emptiness!!
Hastingly i start skimmimng through my cookingbooks.
But i can't understand a single word.
They are written in some code.
I open the fridge. No edibles..
just a big black whole which impends to absorb me.
There is nothing i could serve to the waiting clanship!
I will disappoint all expectations badly.

What a nightmare!!

I look up and notice the sudden silence.
He is peering into my face.
"What happened?" he asks. "Why you are quiet?"
"Kuch nahi" Nothing, i smiled at him.